So onto a few cosmetics. I originally planned to have the tatty wheels powder coated, but decided on the cheaper option of respraying instead. So front wheel removed, striped of weights (tyre marked to show the position), disc removed etc. degreased, rubbed down where necessary, degreased again, dusted off, masked:
Etch primed, flattened off, silver paint applied, DISASTER!
Modern acrylic based paints can have serious issues with older presumably cellulose paints. After some lengthy research it appears that a sealer isolator (UPOL Barcoat or similar) would help. Its alcohol based. very chalky in appearance, put a fine dust on everything (including me) & doesn't like being cut back with wet & dry. Following advice received the the problem areas were rubbed down flat, followed by a mist coat of Simoniz Etch Primer, then a light coat of Car Colours Isolator Sealer followed by a normal coat of Simoniz Grey Primer, giving 24 hours drying time between each step & no sanding back between coats. Once the final coat of primer had fully dried it was then very lightly dry sanded smooth & finished off with Simoniz Silver Wheel paint & Simoniz Clear Lacquer on top. SUCCESS!
The fork lowers were spayed with Simoniz Tough Satin Black, no problems with this one, no primer required - straight on top of the existing factory finish after light prep & degreasing.
The closest fit gaiters I could find are as fitted to new Triumph Bonnevilles, plenty of pattern ones available they are a slightly loose fit on the tubes but this is easily taken up with stainless steel jubilee clips.
I always thought the top of the forks looked a little skinny & was contemplating getting some steel tube to slip over these but found that 40mm black solvent weld waste pipe is a perfect fit & at £4 for a 3 meter length whats not to like. A new better fitting 200mm headlamp has replaced the old RD250/400 replica. Also gave the engine a good once over with E-Tech Silver Engine Enamel. On to the back wheel we go..........
Before
After 