93 saved, Clutch gasket removal tip, Clutch contridiction

[mor2bz]

The $350 special is coming back to life. It was all going pretty well until a float needle stuck open in conjunction with
the petcock failing or left on prime. #2 was full of gas which was ejected by spinning the motor over with all the sparkplugs out.
The clutchcover had begun leaking as the oil was very much thinned by the gas which had leaked down the cylinder wall.,
This happened while the bike was not running, which is good. The crank bearings seemed fine before when it was running,
so they should be good now. The fact that there was no oil in the bike when we bought it may indicate that a float needle or
petcock problem had occurred earlier.

The actual problem with the flat needle was the the pin from which the float was suspended was galled and the two chambers in
which the pin resides were slightly tweaked from one plane. So the float was not moving freely. I took a small conical
dremel tool to the hole in the seat to provide more contact area. This I just twirled with my fingers after removing the
seat from the carb. Tricky to put the seat keeper phillips screw back in while the carb was on the bike. If you all have
not got a proper JIS screwdriver yet, I can recommend one highly. I just have a #2. I replace the petcock with a genuine
made-in-Japan Yamaha Raptor 660 non-vacuum model for $28. I have seen the vacuum jobs screw up too many times
and I don't have $80 for a new one. It sat 1 1/3" higher but I don't think that will be a problem The outlet faced the rear of the
bike so is not ideal, but a much longer fuel hose made it work.

I have a problem with the clutch in that it engages very far out. It dosn't seem to slip but is impossible to use easily. It does
not matter how I adjust it. The cable is very gunked up and I have cable injector on the way. Radare asked for a tip on how to
clean gasket material away from the cover and case. After scraping away the easy stuff with a sharp razor and your fingernail,
get out the heat gun. Put it on high and hold it a couple inches away from a two inch troublesome section for ten seconds.
Now try scraping it away. (Update - I could not get the motion pro style of injector to work well at all. Oil would just
squirt out the back end of it. I achieved success by securing the corner of a plastic bag to the end of the bable with a zip tie
to create a funnel into which I poured some oil. This wasted not oil at all and got some into the cable housing. )

I had no suggestions regarding my clutch issue although I mentioned it in a couple of different sections. My thoughts were
that the plates were worn and this changed the range of adjustment. The fact that the engine is not super powerful would
explain the lack of slippage. But I just measured the plates and springs. The friction plates were 3.125 mm. when the range
for new is 2.9 to 3.1 (replace they say at 2.7). The springs were a bit short, averaging 41.25 mm. Minimum is to be 41.8.
The steel plates were worn a bit but still in spec: 1.57 mm. where 1.5 is to be the minimum.

It was suggested by a friend more versed in clutches than I that the contamination of the plates in gas diluted oil
may be responsible for the problem.

If you have any ideas, please reach out and give them to me. This bike is very close to running and running well except
for this issue. If no one will help I will just put the new plates in .
Often the solution to a mechanical problem is to just take the thing apart and put it back together. If it works I will be
happy, but it would sure be nice to know what is going on.

Thank you.