How to: Remove Fuel Tank Rust using Electrolysis

Maintenance how-to's and guides for the induction system including the airbox, carburetors, fuel tank, fuel pump, petcock and hoses.
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upsetter
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This is a how-to on removing rust from your tank with electrolysis.

If like me, you find yourself with an XJ that sat for 5-6 years with a quarter tank of gas in it, not only is there a gooey good time waiting in the carbs but A TANK FULL OF RUST.

While chemicals with rocks or screws works on lighter rust problems, I found this technique to work great with basket case inflections and to really get the tank ready for a good lining. Down side is time, 3-5 8hr. cycles. If you have the time then this is the way to go.

Heres what you need:
- Washing soda (NOT baking soda. usually found in the laundry detergent section. or check http://www.armandhammer.com/Products/WhereToBuy.aspx and search for availability in your area.
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-12v battery charger (one with out an auto shut off)

-Strip of metal for electrode (NO STAINLESS.. use re-bar or some kind of scrap metal. I cut a strip off the old water heater shield.
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-Water

-Wood (at least one scrap 2in. piece)

* This process produces highly flammable and explosive hydrogen gas (remember the Hindenburg?), so do it outside.
* USE COMMON SENSE AND CONTINUE AT YOUR OWN RISK...


HERE WE GO:
01. Remove petcock and seal up the holes. You need to seal it with something better than tape. I used a piece of an old car floor mat and an old hindge.
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02. Mix washing soda with water. 1 table spoon per gallon.

03. Remove gas cap setup and poor in solution. Fill it completely, move the tank slightly to let out air bubbles and fill upper portion then top off.
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04. Set up electrode (strip of metal). The important part is that it DOES NOT TOUCH THE TANK. What I did is screw my electrode to a scrap piece of 2x4, leaving room for the charger clamp at the top and checking the depth to be as deep as possible without touching the bottom. Then I taped the wood in place.
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05. Hook up charger. With the charger unplugged hook the positive to electrode and negative to tank. Make sure the negative clamp gets to metal by choosing a good spot to dig it in and not just let it sit on the paint.
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06. plug in charger and start drinking. You should see the solution start bubbling and rust start being drawn to the electrode before the first beer goes down or within the first 15 min. If not, then either your charger is to fancy or the negative is not connecting.
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07. Walk away and leave it running for at least 8hrs. I ended up doing 4 cycles of which 2 ended up running for over 10hrs.

08. Discount charger. Remove electrode and clean/sand it back to metal. Next, dump solution and rinse out tank with a hose.

LOOK WHAT WAS COMING OUT! yumyum... I took the opportunity to chase my kids around with it like a poo stick.. haha
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09. Repeat entire process until clean.

10. Coat bare metal. This is a great time to follow Radare"s tank cleaning tutorial http://xjrider.com/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=1854 in final prep for a tank liner. I was waiting for my shipment of Caswell tank liner to arrive so I coated the inside with WD40 to keep away the flash rust and sealed it up with duct tape. I'll do the etching once it arrives. Eventually a liner will have to be used unless your are selling it to someone you don't like or you enjoyed this tutorial so much you wanna do it again. Word on the street is Caswell is the good stuff, where as Kreem is the junk.

Here's my results
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good luck,
UPSETTER
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