How to: Paint Your Engine

How-to's for the Seca II's cosmetics, including detailing, paint, bodywork, fairings and seat reupholstry
Post Reply
User avatar
radare
Site Founder
Site Founder
Posts: 10420
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 12:42 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Contact:

How to: Paint Your Seca II/XJ600's Engine
What you'll need:
  • (3) Three cans of engine enamel rated to 500F plus.
  • Masking tape
  • Dish washing detergent
  • Scrub brush assortment (including a toothrbrush)
  • Gasket scraper
  • Wire brush
  • Scotchbrite pads
  • 220-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper
  • Cheap oil filter (that you'll throw away afterward)
Remove the engine:
It is recommended that you remove the engine before painting.

Clean the engine:
Begin by blanking-off and protecting the intake ports, exhaust ports and crankcase breather hole so that no water can get in them. I have used a dozen different methods to do this, from stuffing rags into them to making plates that bolt over them. Once you're sure no water can get in those places, start cleaning.

Image

I use dish washing detergent and a good rigid scrub brush to remove all of the grime. Scrub every inch of the engine and then scrub it again and then, do it again. There has to be no oil, dirt or grime anywhere. For stubborn grime, use a gasket scraper and steel brush. Use a steel brush to scrub oxidation from the engine fins.

Prepare the engine for paint:
Once that's done and the engine is clean enough that it could be surgically implanted into your chest, it's time to prepare it for paint. Using a Scotchbrite pad, scuff all of the engine painted surfaces to remove gloss and give the new paint something to hold on to. This gives you a nice surface for the new paint. If you have any areas where the stock paint has flaked off and bare metal or oxidation shows through, use the 220-grit sandpaper to feather these areas until smooth.

Mask the engine:
Blow the engine off with some compressed air to make sure it's absolutely dry and free from dust.

Mask off parts that you don't want painted. This should include the clutch arm, the oil sight glass, the tensioner bolt and anything that shouldn't have paint on it. Fit a new oil filter (a cheap one that you don't mind painting and throwing away) to protect the oil filter area.

Paint the engine:
Paint the engine. I use Duplicolor engine enamel and only the stuff rated to 500F (and not the 1800F header paint). The engine doesn't get hot enough for the higher temp paint and the lower temp stuff is much more durable and nice-to-look at. Give the engine at least two coats of paint and ensure ample coverage.

Once you've painted it, walk-away. Literally walk away from it for at least 2 hours to give the paint time to dry. Don't fiddle with it or apply more coats. Just walk away and let it cure.

Here's that same engine, painted. I used a combination of low-gloss and gloss blacks and painted the valve-cover and side covers separately:

Image

Image

Image

Image

If you're going back with silver, a good paint for matching the stock case paint is Duplicolor Aluminum (not cast-coat aluminum, just aluminum). On this engine, the VC, side covers and clutch cover are all painted with Duplicolor Aluminum:

Image

Image

Image


Install the engine:
Let the engine dry overnight until its absolutely dry (and not sticky) to the touch. Then install it back in the frame.

Cure the paint:
Once the bike's back together, start the engine and let it run for 10 to 15 minutes to get hot, but not too hot. Shut it down after that time and let it cool. This will heat-cure the paint, increasing its durability. Do this before riding the bike for the first time.
Post Reply