Working on Valve Clearance/Adjusting

Maintenance, repair, troubleshooting, etc.
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aviatortony
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Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:51 pm

So far.. I have quickly "gauged" each valve to see what is out of specs. stated by Yamaha. Here is my results..

Note: All marked with (X) are clearly out of specs.

Cylinder 1 - .23 mm Intake (X)
- .20 mm Exhaust (X)

Cylinder 2 - .15 mm Intake
- .18 mm Exhaust (X)

Cylinder 3 - .10 mm Intake (X)
- .22 mm Exhaust

Cylinder 4 - .15 mm Intake
- .23 mm Exhaust

I haven't removed any shims yet but will be after I order/receive the tools necessary for the job.

:twocents:

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radare
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Mon Apr 06, 2015 8:32 pm

If you have to replace multiple shims, I highly recommend removing the cams in-lieu of using the tool. Sure, you'll have to retime the engine (which takes some time the first-time you do it) but you have easy access to the shims and you can see what shims are on each bucket, allowing you to swap shims between cylinders.

I can write up a "How to Time your Engine" writeup if needed.

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aviatortony
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Mon Apr 06, 2015 9:42 pm

Indeed, I would love a write up on that. Are any specialty tools needed?

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radare
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Mon Apr 06, 2015 9:58 pm

No special tools. The timing tensioner is removed allowing the timing chain to slip up over the cams. Then you remove the cams and pull them out. When putting them back in, you have to allign some alignment marks and then tweak the cam adjustment by removing the timing gear bolts and rolling the cams. That's the hard part. But it's not difficult once done once or twice. I'll dig through my photos when I get home and get you a writeup on timing.

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aviatortony
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Mon Apr 06, 2015 10:24 pm

radare wrote:No special tools. The timing tensioner is removed allowing the timing chain to slip up over the cams. Then you remove the cams and pull them out. When putting them back in, you have to allign some alignment marks and then tweak the cam adjustment by removing the timing gear bolts and rolling the cams. That's the hard part. But it's not difficult once done once or twice. I'll dig through my photos when I get home and get you a writeup on timing.
Thanks man... I appreciate the help! I'm going to go ahead and remove the cam in the near future... I love working on this stuff and learning new things and this will definitely be a first.

The funny thing is that in the military, if something went bad (Like an engine), they would just have us pull it out and put a new one in instead of overhauling.. LOL so, I've pulled many engines and transmissions however never got to tear into them!

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aviatortony
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Fri Apr 10, 2015 10:50 pm

Okay all, I got the cams off and took note of the shims .. Someone please help me figure out how to solve which shim I should use.. I do understand there is an excel program however my computer freaks out every time I try to use it... :???:

Here's what I gathered...

Cylinder 1 Intake .23mm shim 275
exhaust .20mm shim 270

Cylinder 2 exhaust .18mm shim 275

Cylinder 3 intake .10mm shim 275

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aviatortony
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Fri Apr 10, 2015 11:01 pm

If I read the chart right on the Service Manual..

cylinder 1 intake should be a 285 shim
exhaust stays at 270

cylinder 2 exhaust stays at 275

cylinder 3 intake should be 270

:twocents:

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whitenight639
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Sun Apr 26, 2015 11:49 am

aviatortony wrote:So far.. I have quickly "gauged" each valve to see what is out of specs. stated by Yamaha. Here is my results..

Note: All marked with (X) are clearly out of specs.

Cylinder 1 - .23 mm Intake (X)
- .20 mm Exhaust (X)

Cylinder 2 - .15 mm Intake
- .18 mm Exhaust (X)

Cylinder 3 - .10 mm Intake (X)
- .22 mm Exhaust

Cylinder 4 - .15 mm Intake
- .23 mm Exhaust

I haven't removed any shims yet but will be after I order/receive the tools necessary for the job.

:twocents:
Your no1 exhaust is in spec, I'm supprised you have more clearance on some than spec, all of mine have less clearance as the valves beat themselvs into the head, I wonder what can cause extra clearance like that? maybe carbon build up on the valve seats. have you re-shimmed yours now? I've just taken measured mine and taken out the shims one by one using the cable tie method, was fiddly and took a while but not too bad.

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aviatortony
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Sun Apr 26, 2015 1:35 pm

Whitenight, I actually replaced the shims by removing the camshafts which make it a lot easier; however, I am still in the process of the timing. I put it together once and believe that the timing was slightly off since it would run alittle but then cut-out. Plus, I did hear a knocking noise which results in the timing.. my guess. So, I will be tearing it back down and re-doing the timing.

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ride92
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Mon Apr 27, 2015 9:23 am

Radare, did you ever get that write up done on timing? I thought that as long as you got the chain back on the correct teeth (the ones they cam off of) that you were good to go. A write up on how to make sure the divots are in the window would be great. I'm wondering now if mine weren't a bit off when I did my valves. I'll get to play with the '96 valves soon enough so I can "practice" on that bike.
Check out my build of "Project Sonar": viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3048

"'Having somebody help you doesn't mean you failed, it just means you're not in it alone."

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