Operation naked/cafe is a go

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skydivemurray
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Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:05 pm
Region or State: WI
Motorcycles Owned Currently: 1992 Seca 2

Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:31 am

Alright after much deliberation and seeing caspers white seca I have decided to do the cafe / streetfighter conversion. So Casper or anyone with a street fighter mod if you would be willing to share your secrets that would be great cause idk where to start! I love the clip ons but to be honest I have no idea how they work :what: anyway pics and reports to come. I have a v and h system coming as well! I'm no mechanic but pretty handy so we'll see how it goes.

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skydivemurray
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Motorcycles Owned Currently: 1992 Seca 2

Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:23 am

Btw pretend this is in projects... I clicked the wrong one :oops:

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Casper
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Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2012 2:16 am
Region or State: Motor City (MI)
Motorcycles Owned Currently: 1994 XJ600, 2006 SV650

Sat Apr 07, 2012 11:56 am

Welcome to the mad house of modifications.

Clip ons are simply just a clamp with a tube sticking out. You remove the top triple, slide the clip on clamp down the tube and tighten the bolts down a little, slide the other side down and tighten the bolts down a little. Then you play with the bars to find the same angle on both so that they are symmetrical and are as comfortable you can get with them. Make sure that at full lock that they don't hit the tank. Then tighten them down to torque specs if you have them. The FZR top triple is the same offset, tube width, and tube diameter as our Secas and has a flat top instead of a pair of risers. It really cleans it up if you wanted to go that route.

The Vance and Hines system should be loads of fun. If you get 4 copper exhaust gaskets (should replace these after every removal of the exhaust system), then the exhaust swap is just unbolt everything and bolt everything back together. If you want the exhaust to really make a difference you can pick up a foam uni or K&N air filter and tune the carbs or get someone with experience to do it for you, it will make a difference and give you a well running, well flowing engine.

If you have any questions, please let me know.
Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing.

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Helder
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Joined: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:58 pm
Region or State: Portugal
Motorcycles Owned Currently: 1992 Yamaha XJ 600 Diversion
Location: Portugal

Sat Apr 07, 2012 12:21 pm

Casper, how do the clip ons affect the ride?

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skydivemurray
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Motorcycles Owned Currently: 1992 Seca 2

Sat Apr 07, 2012 2:24 pm

Thanks casper! So how hard and what kind is it to swap out the headlight? Also what kind of speedo do you use now that you cafed it? And I'm assuming you relocated the horn and all the wires as well I think I can figure that part out to clean it up a bit. Also did you just grind off all the fairing holders

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greeny4704
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Motorcycles Owned Currently: 95 xj600 4k / 93 xj600 13k

Sat Apr 07, 2012 7:59 pm

The headlight options are endless all you really need is the mounting hardware for 38mm forks or you can go my route and buy a headlight with windscreen but i recommend going no lower than 55/60 watt which is what factory is gauges on caspers bike are trail tech vapor gauges you can make your own mount or trail tech makes mounts also check out motorcycle superstore.com or partsnmore.com for the headlight mounts
BUILT NOT BOUGHT

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radare
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Motorcycles Owned Currently: '92 XJR600, '92 Seca II
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Sat Apr 07, 2012 8:27 pm

Thanks casper! So how hard and what kind is it to swap out the headlight? Also what kind of speedo do you use now that you cafed it? And I'm assuming you relocated the horn and all the wires as well I think I can figure that part out to clean it up a bit. Also did you just grind off all the fairing holders
When I did mine, I cut off the fairing mounts, horn mount and fairing bumpers and relocated the horn below the triple. I did the cutting carefully and then covered them with touch up paint in lieu of painting the frame.

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Casper
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Region or State: Motor City (MI)
Motorcycles Owned Currently: 1994 XJ600, 2006 SV650

Sat Apr 07, 2012 9:03 pm

When I removed the fairing, shortly after, I removed the fairing stays, the horn mount, the horn (do not need one to ride legally here), the turn signals (You can remount these on your new mounting hardware, but I do not use them in normal riding situations. Nobody uses signals here in New Mexico, nor do they know what they mean.), the clutch switch, and the mirrors (replaced with small bar end mirrors and eventually just went to a single one on the left, I prefer to turn my head and only use the mirrors when at a stop). For re-routing the wiring, I mostly pulled mine towards the rear of the bike and have a circle taped together that sits just behind the tank of excess I can remove (I was keeping it so that I knew I had room to play with when I did the tail swap.) and I have been through the main harness removing the unnecessary wires (I still have the wiring for my idiot lights and such, its just not hooked up at the moment as I keep an eye on the important things while I ride and before I ride).

Clip-ons really pull you forward and doesn't affect me as much due to my size, a smaller person will be laying on the tank. They are great if you like that position or want to be able to tuck on the highway more comfortably, but the original bars or dirty bars are better on the back. If you go clip-ons, you will need shorter cables eventually or be really good at routing them to keep them from kinking anywhere.

Headlights are dime a dozen, just find a nice H4 or better set that have a good lense and housing. Almost all of the older headlights from the 70s and 80s bikes will work, you just need to find one that has an actual lense instead of a sealed beam. I know people who have chosen the single round style I have or have gone with something newer fancier looking (like the MT-03 or V-Rod) to the dual small rounds or projectors (Dominators come to mind.) to the streetfighter masks (http://www.customfighters.com/forums/im ... 6220_1.gif). Most older ones can be found cheap, most newer ones will be plastic and cheap or well made and expensive. I have yet to find a cheap well made new one on the market.

Headlight mounting can be bought or created, if you just want to buy a good set of mounts, ebay has them for cheap. You can create your mounts using simple 1'' x 1/8'' stock of aluminium or steel and wrapping them around a BMX grinding peg and drilling some holes (this is what I did and it works well, just doesn't look as clean if you do not take your time on it. Helps if you have a vice.) or you can get some 39 or 40mm inner diameter tubing and weld a couple ears to those (make them the height of the top of the bottom triple to the bottom of the top triple and they come out really clean, just look at Radare's headlight set up. Take up the gap of the tubing with a thing set of rubber to keep it from having metal to metal contact.).

For my gauges, I swapped over to a Trailtech Vapor. Its a good unit, but not very accurate on the tachometer unless you grab the right resistor and attach it to the coils instead of wrapping a wire around the spark plug wire. It has a bunch of functionality and also have the option of an idiot lights cluster that fits around the unit. Many ways to mount these as they have two mounting screws on the back, but I am using the bar mount system that came with it. If your title says actual mileage, email the guys at Trailtech and they will give you a code to enter to your unit and let you manually change your mileage so that you can keep the actual mileage on the unit if the laws allow it.

As with all metal work, a nice touch of paint that matches your part goes a long way to keep rust from forming and making it look good. For grinding, I prefer flapper discs as they remove a lot of material if you want them to or you can use some finesse and only take a bit off. Makes it look cleaner then grinding disks as well.
Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing.

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