How To: Spark Plug Replacement

Routine maintenance for your XJ600's engine.
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ammvio54
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This how-to describes the process of replacing the spark plugs on the Seca II.

Proper performing spark plugs are crucial for a smooth running bike; they provide the electricity needed to start your bike! It's recommended that you replace them about every two years, or about every three to four thousand miles. I personally like to check them every time I change my oil--just to see how they look and make sure they don't need cleaned or changed. Performing this maintenance yourself can save you money and is very easy to do.


Some basic information before we get to the replacement:

The recommended spark plug is: NGK CR8E.

The recommended spark plug gap (the distance from the electrode to the tip) is: 0.7mm to 0.8mm. If they are out of specification, you'll need new spark plugs.

It's recommended that you use anti-seize compound on the threads of the spark plugs. Anti-seize compound helps prevent corrosion between the spark plug and cylinder head; the two different types of metal in contact can create corrosion. This can lead to the spark plug being extremely hard to get out, but the anti-seize helps prevent this from happening.

The recommended tightening (torque) is:
108 inches-pound or ~9 feet-pound

If you do not have a torque wrench:
1/12 - 1/8 turn with socket & ratchet

WARNING: Do NOT tighten the spark plugs too tight! This could lead to you snapping the porcelain off on the spark plug and ruining the plug, as well as possibly the threads in the head; not to mention the hassle of getting the plug back out of the header. Do NOT take the spark plugs out when the engine is hot; you'll only want to perform this maintenance when the engine is cold.



First, you'll want to disconnect your wires from the plugs.
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Then, you'll want to take all four of the spark plugs out and inspect them. Usually they show use in the form of a black residue being on the tip and lower threads. See the chart at the end of this post to see what the colors on the plugs tell you (I know it's a bit dated but does give a good description). Here's what mine looked like:
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Here's a comparison of a new spark plug vs. one I pulled off my bike:
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There is an option to clean the spark plug; this involves carefully cleaning the tip of it with a wire brush. However, I generally just opt for the new ones. They are reasonably priced and can usually get all four for about $16-20 USD, along with a small packet of anti-seize compound.
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Next, you'll want add the anti-seize compound to the threads of the new spark plug. Use the anti-seize very sparingly; it does not require much at all. Just add a small bit and rub it all around the upper part of the threads--be careful not to get any on the electrode or tip. It should look something like this:
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Once you add the anti-seize, you can put the spark plugs back in the header. Be sure to tighten them correctly and not strip the existing threads. Hand tighten them (I like to use the socket since they are in a bit of an awkward place.
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Once they are finger tight, use a torque wrench or ratchet to tighten them down to the correct specification, as mentioned above.
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After this is completed, just put the caps back on, clean up, and you're ready to hit the road!!



The chart as I specified earlier, the different colors or descriptions on the spark plug that help discern possible issues.
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